![]() I wasn't able to find a single image of any Universal brake levers with that small 1mm notch on the side (as pictured in my levers) so even though they look quite the same, I can't be sure they're a match (in regard to whether that cable adjuster in my lever would fit in place of that missing adjuster in that Ebay listing, the clamp size/reach being correct etc.)Īlso, the used market for Universal lever hoods. Once again, you'll have to excuse the multiple posts on this. (+ one other option I was looking at: VINTAGE 1970s NEW OLD STOCK WEINMANN BRAKE LEVERS,NON AERO,IDEAL FOR L'EROICA maybe easier to find hoods.) it would seem that the other lever in this Ebay listing is missing that part which screws on the end (cable adjuster?) - however! As you can see in my photo here, I could use the cable adjuster from my existing lever and it would fit here just fine? The first one is, postage included, just too expensive for this project: VINTAGE 1960`s UNIVERSAL Mod 61 DROP BAR ALLOY BRAKE LEVERS - BRIGHT POLISHED! | eBayīut I found another, cheaper one which I may consider bidding on - the pictures are found when scrolling at the very bottom of this post: VINTAGE_UNIVERSAL MODEL 61 BRAKE LEVERS_1960's | eBay Judging by the picture of my current, mismatched levers below, I think I might have found the exact model of that other lever - Universal Model 61 (the only difference I can see is that small 1mm notch on the body of my lever here) - and two Ebay listings for it. The relieving (holes) screams of a much later era.I didn't realize that, so it's just the type of information I was looking for. It's likely I'll start out with the wheels I currently have (instead of buying new ones) just so I can some first-hand riding experience on it asap (see how straight/balanced it runs, how bad those braking/rim bumps are going to be etc) and not having the budget blow out too soon. Excuse all the weird questions lately, hopefully a bit less spamming here for now and a bit more working on the bike, I'll get that thing on the road sooner or later. If the frame is all good, maybe the wheel just needs to be dished even 'more off center' than it is now. But yeah, next time I'm working on the bike, I'm going to start by doing the frame alignment string test just to make sure it's solid (though flipping the wheel over did put the offset on the other side.) and after some additional googling on all of this, I'll finally get the hang of it. ![]() This, in light that I have just had the rear wheel trued is what made me wonder. Ok this is a bit hard to explain, but comparing to an image like this for example - just something I saw in another thread: - the difference in space between the drive side and the non-drive side seems to be way more significant in my bike than in other road bikes I've checked out, where it appears more or less centered. While observing some road bikes in the real world though, they always seem to have less asymmetry even at that point where the hub/axle meets the frame (almost like they have a larger amount of 'spacers' on the non-cassette side). The asymmetricality is termed "dish."That makes sense. ![]() On derailleur geared bicycles it is necessary to build the rear wheel asymmetrically in order to have room for the multiple cogs.
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